Restored by the incredible Hermann Bolle from 1880-1905 (after the 1880 earthquake damaged the structure) the impressive twin spires of the cathedral dominate Zagreb. It also happens to be the tallest building in Croatia. Even though the exterior of the Cathedral seems to be in a permanent state of repair with scaffolding surrounding the structure, inside you’ll find the tomb...

At the northern end of King Tomislav Square sits this wonderful structure, originally built to serve as the Croatian Pavilion at the Budapest Millennial Exhibition in 1896. After the exhibition, the Pavilion was disassembled and transported to Zagreb by train and re-assembled in it’s current location. Inside you’ll find various high-profile international exhibitions. Regardless of the current exhibition on while...

Named after the man on the horse that sits in its centre, the square of Ban Josip Jelacic is Zagreb’s favourite meeting place and your starting point for both our walks. If a Zagebrian tells you to meet them ‘under the tail,’ this is where they mean. It’s also the main hub for the tram lines. The square has existed since the...

If you know nothing about the Naive art form that originated in Croatia in the middle of the 20th century, or know everything about it; this museum is for you. The highly colourful, Naive movement is a bit odd (chickens are sometimes bigger than houses) and often political. Most don’t realise that the entire movement centres around painting on glass,...

Built in 1873 and designed in a historicist style by Viennese architect Hermann Helmer, during its construction, Helmer fell in love with a Varazdinian woman who he later married. The local folks say it’s because of this romance that occurred during the construction which explains the structure’s external harmony, and its luxury interior which ‘reveals an unquestioning passion and enjoyment...

Elis Caffe is the old grand-daddy and leader when it comes to the Zagreb coffee scene. Look twice or you might miss this hole-in-the-wall micro-roaster (and coffee bar) on Illica where it’s hard to find a seat. But don’t give in – prop yourself up against the counter if you must and enjoy this sublime drop. Opened in 2005 by...

Another one of my favourite Zagreb destinations, this is where Mestrovic lived and worked from 1922 to 1942. The 17th century house is stunning and you can tour the levels and outside studio. It’s a wonderful insight into Mestrovic’s work with over 100 sculptures, with numerous drawings and pieces of furniture. There’s also a good gift shop.

Housed in the Neo-Renaissance palace on Roosevelt Square, the Mimara Museum displays art collected by Ante Topic Mimara, a private collector who spent most of his life in Austria, and donated over 3,500 pieces of priceless artwork to his native Zagreb. “When the Museum is opened, my heart will be filled with enormous joy because the aim of my life...

Don’t be afraid of visiting a cemetery! Another one of Hermann Bolle’s masterpieces and to many, the jewel in the Bolle/Zagreb crown is the Mirogoj complex designed by the architect and constructed between 1883 to 1914. More like a park than a cemetery, Mirogoj is Zagreb’s main cemetery with it’s arcades, domed gatehouses, pavilions and mortuary all designed by Bolle. It...

At the MBR you’ll find trinkets and momentos of relationships that (for lack of a better phrase) didn’t work out. Each item includes an explanation of the failed relationship and what the item meant to the owner. From wedding dresses to fluffy toys, even chewing gum, it’s all here. At times sad, at times uplifting, it’s no wonder the museum has won...

Go for the brandy! Rakhia Bar on Tkalciceva Street was conceived as an eclectic living room where everybody would feel at home whether drinking a cup of tea or sampling one of over 100 Croatian rakija (brandies) the bar is famous for. From classics like plum, fig, honey or mistletoe brandy to the lesser known flavours of pepper, truffle, black...

With an almost tapestry-like roof Saint Mark’s Church is an absolute show-stopper. On said roof, the left side bears the medieval Croatian (red and white checkerboard), Dalmatian (three crowned leopards) and Slavonian (six pointed star and marten) coats-of-arms and on the right, the Zagreb emblem. Due to various natural disasters St Mark’s has received plenty of TLC in the form...

Just a 10 minute walk from the city centre takes you to the magnificent ruins of the Samobor Castle. The castle was built between 1260 and 1264 by supporters of the Czech king Ottokar II of Bohemia. The location was strategic in that it was at the intersection of routes in this corner of the Sava valley and the medieval...

At the eastern gate to medieval Gradec Town (Upper Town) is the Stone Gate. Legend has it that a fire destroyed the wooden gate in 1731 except for the painting of the Virgin and Child. Hence today the gate acts as a shrine to the Virgin Mary. Zagreb-folk believe that the painting possesses magical powers.  They stop here regularly to pray, light...

Built in the 14th century and then rebuilt in the 16th century, the whitewashed Varazdin Castle or Fortress is a wonderful example of Renaissance-Gothic architecture. Known to Croatians as Stari Grad or Old Town it’s really a defensive fort and the structure is so iconic that it was featured on the now defunct 5 Kuna bill. Set within the grounds...

Named after Nikola Subic Zrinski – meet Zagreb’s most beloved green space. Popularly known as Zrinjevac, in spring and summer the music pavilion (center of all action) caters for brass bands, while craft beer and food pop-ups spring up all over the square. Zrinjevac is home to Zagreb’s first fountain completed in 1893. The fountain was designed by Hermann Bolle...