Butrint is a Unesco World Heritage Site, and with the remains of at least three empires it is easy to see why. The amphitheatre and baptistery with its mosaic floor are the biggest photo-opportunities, but the whole setting of the site. amid the marshes and lagoons, is a treat to wander round. You can get a sense of the layers...

The attacks on Albania’s religious communities (Sunni and Bektashi Muslims, Catholic and Orthodox Christians) by the Communist regime led to the destruction and desecration of many places of worship, meaning that the small mosque in the south-eastern corner of Skanderbeg Square is a particularly precious jewel. Built in the eighteenth century, its painted walls both internal and external feature trees, waterfalls and cityscapes which are rare...

Tradita describes itself as a hotel, a restaurant and a museum… Curious about what that would look like? Think also what that would taste like. Or what it would be like to sleep in such a place… The Tradita concept is the brainchild of its owner, the slightly mad Gjon Duke Gilaj who is usually wearing national costume and is...

You might not expect a Communist-themed cafe to be either so vibrant or so friendly, but Komiteti is a celebration of the best of daily life under the regime. Waiters in Communist era uniforms will be happy to explain any of the clutter of exhibits and framed memorabilia which cover walls and every surface. The cafe also has a wonderful...

As you approach Kruja and look up at the town perched high on an escarpment you’ll understand immediately why the Albania hero of resistance against the Ottomans built his castle here. The castle can still be explored, together with the ‘Historical Museum’ designed in mock-castle style by Enver Hoxha’s daughter. There is also an interesting Ethnological Museum. But a more...

If you want to experience rural Albanian life there are very few opportunities as picturesque as the traditional stone house kulla in the village of Shulbater. The Gjini family’s home is just one in traditional style across the little hilltop of this village set in rolling terrain. The accommodation is basic but you’ll sleep in a room decorated with stone...

Lake Komani is not a natural lake but was created by a dam as part of a hydroelectric project in the eighties. Nevertheless, industry seems a century away as you drift in jade coloured water and the journey is deeply peaceful, navigating the dramatic gorge. It was described by one traveller as being ‘like the riverboat sequence in the first...

The calm of Lake Ohrid may come from the fact that it is the deepest lake in the Balkans, and one of the oldest lakes in the world (comparable to Lake Baikal and Lake Tanganyika). It lies between Albania and Macedonia and on the Albanian side the largest town is Pogradec where there are plenty of hotels, bars and cafes....

Set in the rural location which gave birth to Albania’s national poet, Gjergj Fishta, the author of The Highland Lute, the Mrizi i Zanave restaurant is a phenomenon. It is leading the way for a rediscovery of traditional dishes, of local food and of playful combinations of these with modern expectations. There is no printed menu but your waiter will...

This Ottoman-era house is a rare chance to experience Tirana’s history as almost all the city’s pre-independence buildings have been knocked down or are well hidden in private hands. The heritage theme extends even to tablecloths woven in the traditional way, and the restaurant serves both local and international dishes. Try the Tirana speciality dish ‘fergese’ and/ or one of...