You’ll barely be 10 minutes crossing the Grand Canal from the Ritz Carlton and Venetian Village to the Souk Qaryat al Beri and the Shangri-La, or visa versa, but it’s a fun way to go. From the small wooden abra (a traditional boat) you can see the Grand Mosque in the distance and experience what a crossing might have been...
Sitka’s historical Castle Hill was once the site of both Tlingit and Russian forts and thus gives visitors a grand view of the surrounding city, Sound, and mountains. Take a short walk to the top of the hill, move among the cannons and plaques as you take in one of the greatest views of the area without full-on climbing a...
By the intersection of Lincoln and Lake Streets, head towards the water and find the Crescent Harbor informational plaque to start a waterfront walk through Sitka’s nature, fishing culture and history. Be sure to look closely in the shallow harbor for sea stars, herring eggs, bald eagles, and other fauna. Past the playground, there’s a short detour leading to a...
There is a running debate among the local outdoorsy folk about which mountain is a better hike, Mount Verstovia or Gavan Hill. The Gavan Hill die-hards don’t mind the wooden-stair hike to the peak. Any unpleasant huffing and puffing endured in the climb is easily made up for with the breathtaking views of Sitka Sound and Baranof Island. Above the...
Herring Cove/Beaver Lake loop is a great hike for newcomers to Sitka because it has a little bit of everything. Heading through the rainforest, you pass a dramatic waterfall, loop around a lake, and trudge through muskegs, all while surrounded by mountains. It’s also a relatively easy trek, with just a little bit of a climb at the beginning and...
The Raptor Center specializes in raptor research and rehabilitation, but heals other local birds, such as swans and ravens, when needed. Visitors can observe and learn more about the amazing birds of prey that live in Sitka, such as owls and eagles, and also meet some birds here to stay from other parts of the US. The friendly and knowledgeable...
Silver Bay is a deep water fjord bordered by a particularly coastal and scenic part of Sawmill Creek Road, a seafood plant, and the mountains of Baranof and smaller islands. The drive to Silver Bay is short but stunning, with mountains peeking around bends and cascades of melting mountain water running down the rocky ledges by the road. The lookout...
Between the end of Lincoln Street and a rocky beach sits Sitka National Historical Park. This patch of forest is centered around an old Russian fort site with Tlingit and Haida totem poles erected along the way. While you walk along the beach path, keep an eye out for distant whale spouts on the water. Watch for running salmon and...
The Sitka Sound Science Center is a part-tourist destination, part-research hub. The diverse natural life perpetuated by the rainforest and ocean ecosystems of the Inside Passage are studied and cared for by biologists and eager volunteers. A small entrance fee gains you a tour of the research facilities and Science Center grounds, exhibits on Southeast Alaskan wildlife, and touch tanks...
Whale Park is a small whale-watching station off of Sawmill Creek Road. It’s far enough from town to be a quiet place to look for whales from land, but is closer than Silver Bay. Kids (and adults too) can enjoy climbing on the whale statues at the entrance. Visitors can choose to sit in the gazebo outfitted with binoculars, or...
Butrint is a Unesco World Heritage Site, and with the remains of at least three empires it is easy to see why. The amphitheatre and baptistery with its mosaic floor are the biggest photo-opportunities, but the whole setting of the site. amid the marshes and lagoons, is a treat to wander round. You can get a sense of the layers...
The attacks on Albania’s religious communities (Sunni and Bektashi Muslims, Catholic and Orthodox Christians) by the Communist regime led to the destruction and desecration of many places of worship, meaning that the small mosque in the south-eastern corner of Skanderbeg Square is a particularly precious jewel. Built in the eighteenth century, its painted walls both internal and external feature trees, waterfalls and cityscapes which are rare...
Tradita describes itself as a hotel, a restaurant and a museum… Curious about what that would look like? Think also what that would taste like. Or what it would be like to sleep in such a place… The Tradita concept is the brainchild of its owner, the slightly mad Gjon Duke Gilaj who is usually wearing national costume and is...
You might not expect a Communist-themed cafe to be either so vibrant or so friendly, but Komiteti is a celebration of the best of daily life under the regime. Waiters in Communist era uniforms will be happy to explain any of the clutter of exhibits and framed memorabilia which cover walls and every surface. The cafe also has a wonderful...
As you approach Kruja and look up at the town perched high on an escarpment you’ll understand immediately why the Albania hero of resistance against the Ottomans built his castle here. The castle can still be explored, together with the ‘Historical Museum’ designed in mock-castle style by Enver Hoxha’s daughter. There is also an interesting Ethnological Museum. But a more...
If you want to experience rural Albanian life there are very few opportunities as picturesque as the traditional stone house kulla in the village of Shulbater. The Gjini family’s home is just one in traditional style across the little hilltop of this village set in rolling terrain. The accommodation is basic but you’ll sleep in a room decorated with stone...
Lake Komani is not a natural lake but was created by a dam as part of a hydroelectric project in the eighties. Nevertheless, industry seems a century away as you drift in jade coloured water and the journey is deeply peaceful, navigating the dramatic gorge. It was described by one traveller as being ‘like the riverboat sequence in the first...
The calm of Lake Ohrid may come from the fact that it is the deepest lake in the Balkans, and one of the oldest lakes in the world (comparable to Lake Baikal and Lake Tanganyika). It lies between Albania and Macedonia and on the Albanian side the largest town is Pogradec where there are plenty of hotels, bars and cafes....
Set in the rural location which gave birth to Albania’s national poet, Gjergj Fishta, the author of The Highland Lute, the Mrizi i Zanave restaurant is a phenomenon. It is leading the way for a rediscovery of traditional dishes, of local food and of playful combinations of these with modern expectations. There is no printed menu but your waiter will...