In 1912 Albanian independence was declared in the port of Vlora and the city became the first capital of the new country. A small museum on independence and the work of the first government stands by the port and there’s a dramatic statue in town commemorating the struggle for independence.

But Vlora has plenty going on in the present as well as in the past, with a Southern Mediterranean feel in its wide palm-lined boulevards and cafes and bars along the town’s beach. There are better beaches south of town so consider also exploring Uji i Ftohte and beyond.

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  Photo by Elizabeth Gowing