The rewards of that hard mountain crossing into Galcia at O Cebreiro rewards you well with passage into the green valleys and beauty of this province. The approach to Triacastela is enchanted.
Often pilgrims passi through a low fog that settles in the valley overnight and as it slowly burns off reveals an emerald universe of lush forest and wild growth. Arriving here, the mountains begin their gentle slope toward the lowlands, and ultimately, to Santiago de Compostela.
Triacastela was established in the 9th century and was far more inhabited than you find today. Tenth century Norman raids destroyed the three castles that once defined the site and that gave Triacastela its name. Never rebuilt, the coat of arms you’ll discover in the village still shows three castles.
The small church, Iglesia de Santiago, with its early 13th century Romanesque foundation and apse, has survived. The overall form of the current church comes from restorative construction in the 18th century. It is a small and appealing space for a bit of calm and meditation and it also offers a sweet pilgrims’ mass in the evening.