To your left are battlement-like dolerite sea cliffs. To your right a south-curving bight ending in a rocky cape and rock-slab island, beyond which the next landfall is Antarctica. Rising from the sea between the dark blue depths and you is a rock needle (the Totem Pole). It could have been pushed through from below by a subterranean seamstress. Welcome to Cape Hauy (pronounced “hoy”), the most accessible of three capes in Tasman National Park (another is Cape Raoul) and the last hurrah on the Three Capes Track.
A 4km walk, steeply up and then down, through Oyster Bay pines, black she-oaks, blue gums, and coastal heath festooned with wildflowers in spring-summer, puts you on the fenced end of Cape Hauy. As your toes curl near the fenced edge, look for daredevil rock climbers on the Totem Pole, small as insects on what look like web-fine ropes.
The high-speed cruise boat sometimes seen directly below gives passengers a sea-level view of this remarkable geology and the seals that hang-out on them on a half-day adventure voyage.