During the daytime this neighborhood is a market with fresh produce, meats, fish, and spices. It’s a great place to stroll around and snack on Thai desserts, Thai coffee and Thai-style iced tea with milk. There’s also a very good som tam stand on one side of Sriyan Soi 1 and a good haw mok stand on the other side. While you’re there you can buy some canvas tennis shoes that rock both a late ’60s look and price tag.
It may be hard to choose from all the noodle shops: keep in mind that competition is fierce and everyone is serving up anywhere from a decent to a mean bowl. Let your senses guide you. Don’t miss the covered market near Samsen: there’s a vendor in there with good coconut custard filled pumpkin and other specialties. Thai herbs and vegetables cover the tables.
There are daytime vendors and evening vendors, so a visit at 9:30am and 9:30pm will be quite different. Stop by for dinner at Pannetone, which is run by a down-to-earth gourmet family, for some kai jiao ki mao, i.e. scrambled eggs with basil and fresh peppercorns. Or at night, head to the northeast corner of Samsen and sit down in front of the gold store to sup on a comforting bowl of bamee noodles with red pork.
Riverboat taxi: Payap Pier