One of the city’s rare and gifted seafood places, though it doesn’t come cheap. The interior is certainly fancy, but the disarming friendliness of the staff makes it feel far less formal. There’s no English on the menu, so brush up on your Italian seafood vocab before you go.

The mouth-watering options, are augmented by a few envelop-pushing oddities like the squid filled with ricotta and Sardinian cheese, truffle, wrapped in lard in an artichoke cream sauce, which is worth the price for the pleasure of just gazing upon it.

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  Photo by Leif Pettersen
• 
  Photo by Leif Pettersen