The labyrinthine Deer Lodge developed piecemeal since its first incarnation as a 1920s log teahouse. The feel is still partly preserved, giving it as strong a sense of history as its pompous neighbor, Château Lake Louise, a short walk away.
Few of the modest rooms here have phones or TV but facilities include a rooftop hot tub with fantastic views and a sauna.
The lodge’s Mount Fairview Dining Room (reservations 403-522-4202) also oozes rustic charm and has a great menu based around dishes prepared by early local mountain guides. These are strong on game and include a rare chance to sample tangy, rich caribou meat ($40).
A more casual alternative is the Caribou Lounge, the lodge’s original log teahouse with its magnificent view of the Victoria Glacier. Perfect for afternoon tea or an evening cognac!