It’s worth making the short detour east along Dong Du from Dong Khoi to take a peek at the Central Mosque, a beautifully designed, delicately adorned structure that stands in stark contrast to the ugly tower of the Sheraton Hotel next door.

Built in 1935, and one of a dozen mosques in the city, it gives an idea of Saigon’s religious diversity and is generally crowded on Fridays. Its ornate arches and slender minarets make a pleasing sight, and if you happen to be here around lunchtime, you’ll find a small kitchen round the back serving vegetarian dishes at give-away prices.

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  Photo by Ron Emmons