The restaurant’s name refers back to a time in the 19th century when dairy farmers commuted back and forth between Brooklyn’s Red Hook and Governor’s Island. And the menu reflects the management’s years of experience at institutions like Manhattan’s La Grenouille and Michael Mina in San Francisco. The food is regional but expansive, playful but expert. There’s fried chicken of course (the place wouldn’t live up to its name without it), as well as local swordfish with white asparagus and a warm lamb salad served with romaine that picks up the flavors of fried capers and olive croutons for dinner. At brunch, expect four varieties of bloody mary and pecan-pie french toast. And since Brooklyn is family land, a kids’ menu promises an ice-cream sundae, decorated in house, at the end of every wholesome meal.