This cramped, basement space is so close to the Ponte Vecchio you can smell it. Despite its tenuous tourist trap location, it’s loved by locals for well-prepared Florentine dishes like linguine with tuna, ravioli in cream and black pepper, and a secondo plate of fried chicken and rabbit with artichokes. Their pride and joy is the stracotto (t-bone steak) with beans.

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  Photo by Leif Pettersen
• 
  Photo by Leif Pettersen