Zagreb, an Upper Town Ramble

All the sights of Zagreb's Upper Town with Mirogoj

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Our Zagreb Upper Town itinerary starts at Ban Jelacic Square where you head up the stairs to Dolac Market. Here view the iconic Dolac red umbrellas and pick up a fruit treat to fortify you for the walk ahead. There is a small flower market if you use Splavnica (left of the Ban Jelacic statue) to get to Dolac.

From Dolac, it’s across the square to Herman Bolle’s masterpiece – the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

From the front of the Cathedral catch bus number 106 to Mirogoj Cemetery to witness another Zagreb jewel by master architect Bolle and one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Take the same bus to return to the city – it will drop you off in front of the cathedral.

From the cathedral, it’s left onto Kaptol Street heading away from the cathedral, then make your way up and around Dolac, turning right at Opatovina. Here you could stop for a brew treat at anyone of the craft beer breweries, my favourite being Craft Room. Take a right at Skalinska and wander north along Tkalciceva, maybe stopping in at Rakhia Bar. Make a left at Kozarska and take the stairs heading up at Male Stube. Continue north along Radiceva until you get to Kamenita (Stone Street), which will lead you to the Stone Gate.

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Pass through the gate and continue along Kamenita where you can view the amazing rooftop of Saint Mark’s Church and the government buildings located around it.

From Saint Mark’s you can continue north along Opaticka and to the Zagreb City Museum. For those wanting to learn more about the city, complete with names of witches burnt at the stake in Zagreb, this is the museum for you.

Three fascinating Museums

Back at Saint Mark’s you have your choice of three museums.  These include the must-see Museum of Broken Relationships, just at the end of Cirilometodska Street. Before you get to the Museum of Broken Relationships, stop in at number 3 for the art lovers favourite – the Croatian Museum of Naive Art.

On Trg Svetog Marka Street to your left is the Banski Dvori, the presidential palace. Continue north, making a right onto Mletacka Street you’ll find an art lovers oasis at Mestrovic Atelier.

Retrace your steps to St Mark’s Church and down Cirilometodska taking Vitezoviceva on the left and stroll through Jesuit Square. Have a poke around the Jesuit Church of Saint Catherine and maybe see what international exhibition is showing at Klovicevi Dvori just near the bronze statue of the Fisherman and the Snake.

Follow the square around to Strossmayerovo Setaliste or Strossmayer Promenade.  Stopping at the iconic Zagreb statue of poet Matos, called Matos na Klupici – grab a seat next to this silver seated man with the oh, so big nose and get your photo taken.

Continue along Stross until you get to Lotrscak Tower. Climb to the top for wonderful views of the city.

Zagreb’s Montmartre

From here take a wander down the right side of the tower to Strossmartre (a play on the Parisian Montmartre) and stop for a drink in the outdoor cafe or for a free caricature or piece of handmade jewelry and craft from one of the market vendors. It’s also open at night with live bands adding to the fun atmosphere.

After leaving the tower take the blue carriage funicular back down to Illica which boasts several records. It’s the safest public transportation system in the world; no passengers have been injured while riding it in over a century. At 66 meters long, it’s also the shortest funicular in the world.

Back on Illica stop in at Vincek for a well earned break, just at the corner of the funicular stop.

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