“Like the western rattlers that stow beneath erratic boulders in the surrounding foothills, Salt Lake City has shed its skin several times in the past two decades. SLC is a town teeming with arts, nightlife and attitude that left me hissing for just one extra play day — if not two.” This itinerary, by Crai S Bower, was posted on the Visit Utah blog.
I’ve been a Salt Lake cruiser for years, zipping past downtown on my way to play in Park City or Little Cottonwood Canyon. So imagine my surprise when I finally checked into a boutique hotel here and took a look around. First impression? Everyone’s having a good time, whether they’re hanging out on the Beerhive Pub terrace, queuing up for the Tumbleweeds Film Festival at the Rose Wagner PAC or tailgating before the nationally ranked Utah Utes football game. Must be that Wasatch Range elevation.
Bike share programs have swept across North America, but they make the most sense here, given SLC’s relatively flat topography. With stations every few blocks, and an award-worthy app, grabbing one of GREENbike’s bright green cruisers becomes a no-brainer. I also appreciate the broad baskets and optional aluminum panniers, perfect for camera bags or farmers’ market finds. I cruise over to Current Fish & Oyster, a new restaurant set behind an impressive historical brick façade. I follow a dozen of the day’s oyster selections with what I would call “pescado al fresco,” as in Mediterranean sea bass served to me on the vibrant, bustling terrace.
A living room sunset suggests couch slouching and a picture window. Not so in always active SLC, where hiking trails disappear into the foothills from seemingly every direction. We embark from the Natural History Museum of Utah parking lot upon an evening saunter up the Living Room Trail, a 2.7-mile route that leads to a plateau “furnished” with an assortment of chairs and settees assembled from loose sandstone rock (image at top). It turns out the Great Salt Lake provides an ideal canvas for the setting sun’s dazzling palette.
I’m not sure why, but trolley barns and breweries seem to go together like brick and mortar. The Desert Edge Brewery, started in ’72 as a college fueling station, pioneered the city’s micro scene, and has the gold ribbons to prove it. The ambience at trendy Trolley Square complements ale batches such as Citra in Red and the Helles Lager-style Desert Hell. Speaking of diabolical brews, The Annex by Epic Brewing, located in the suddenly chic Sugarhouse neighborhood, is where to go for, count ‘em, 36 different epic ales.
I find quiet time among the flora always adds a nice afterglow to a previous evening’s pub crawl, which is one of many reasons I wander into Red Butte Garden to start my day. Like a lot of non-desert dwellers, I admit to a certain bias against cacti and succulents. Imagine my surprise to find myself within this warren of broad blooms juxtaposed with outdoor sculptures and, my personal favorite, poetry hoisted in iron ore frames. (Home garden inspiration? Check.) My two hours would have stretched to four if I had young kids in tow – the Children’s Garden is that perfect.
The Grand Staircase is just plain cool, massive layers of sedimentary rock that have yielded thousands of dinosaur bones from paleontological rock stars such as Allosaurus and Stegosaurus. The Natural History Museum of Utah is also pretty sweet, a gorgeous building that settles perfectly against the foothills and contains local exhibits as well as rotating shows of global significance.
Few indicators show off a city’s urbane evolution like its neighborhoods, so I make my way to 9th & 9th, an up and comer that’s arrived. Restaurateur Scott Evans helped launch the area into its modern incarnation with his farm-to-table inspired Pago and nearby East Liberty Tap House. I loved the updated Middle Eastern fare inside Mazza, followed by, what else, gelato — every good ‘hood needs one — at Dolcetti. Terraces rule this corner. The Stockist (men’s fashion) and Children’s Hour also hit their marks perfectly.
I may not call SLC’s growing downtown cozy, but it is very walkable, especially when out for a museum crawl. The Leonardo provides an awesome children’s learning, I mean play space, filled with interactive activities as well as some thought-provoking installations, like a mixed-media exhibition that profiles Salt Lake’s homeless population. The City Library exemplifies the SLC’s ascendant spirit, a coliseum boasting a rooftop vista and garden patio that is not to be missed. I expect a family centric hub like SLC to possess a top-rate science museum and library, but I wasn’t prepared to discover the Utah Museum of Contemporary Art and its provocative exhibits. I round out my afternoon with an informative stroll through Temple Square.
I make a rule of sitting at the bar when traveling alone, a fine way to capture the pulse of a town or, at the very least, gauge its friendliness. I’d say lively and amicable. Working my way through Bambara chef Nathan Powers’ Snake River Farms pork shank, my conversation with locals yields a backcountry skiing invite, secret-fishing-hole intel and an enticement to Whiskey Street, a compelling urban saloon.
True, every American city offers a Saturday farmers market, but Salt Lake’s bazaar rocks out, encompassing all of Pioneer Park — a historic park that fills one of Salt Lake City’s large blocks. Makes sense, since the entire population appears to be here. At the Salt Lake City Pioneer Farmers Market a cellist plies her bow beside flower blossoms, steel windmills spin tails, heirloom tomatoes bulge from their crates while a Dixieland band shuffles past to keep time.
Tempted by more varieties of honey than I could ingest in my lifetime, I skip across the street for a breakfast at the Tin Angel, one of those fantastically fringy feeling food stops that no doubt was opened by a Denver or San Francisco transplant who’d lost interest in the big city hustle.
There are logical reasons to pack lightly but you better toss out that extra pair of socks before visiting Salt Lake. You’ll appreciate the room when you convey a crateful of Tony Caputo’s Italian and local artisan delicacies back home. I’m not sure there’s a comparable shop this side of New York City or, perhaps, even Rome. The Cheese Cave alone is worth doubling up undies days. I score some olive oils, before grabbing a tea and biscotti next door at Carlucci’s. Already running short on time, I round the corner to discover a row of artisan studios on Pierpont Avenue. I pick out a $20 rose gold ring at The Land of Salt for my wife that she actually wears. I deem the gift, like the trip, a total success!
While Salt Lake City’s surrounding foothills and canyons offer plenty of outdoor adventure to extend your stay, also consider saving time for the hour’s drive north to the Ogden area, where a whole other mountain of action awaits, including great mountain biking and hiking trails and fishing on the scenic Ogden River.
This itinerary is compliments of the Utah Office of Tourism.