In the Belly of Zagreb
Where to eat and drink in the capital
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Dynamic and elegant, Zagreb combines the best of Eastern and Western Europe, providing visitors with an abundance of history, tradition, charm and most importantly – food.
The list of places to eat and drink is never ending. You can’t walk a block without a crossing paths with a cafe, bar, bakery, cake shop or restaurant and choosing a place can be overwhelming.
While Croatians pride themselves on particularly good coffee and cake – one native recently told me “you can never have enough cake shops in Zagreb” – the last thing you want to do is have a bad drop or mouthful.
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Lower Town Zagreb
On Illica, try Vincek, the grand dame of Zagreb cake shops. Established in 1977, Vincek is particularly good for gooey cake confections and ice creams – try the watermelon flavour.
Also on Illica but further west near Britanski Trg (British Square) is another Zagreb pioneer in Elis Caffe. On first glance you might miss this hole-in-the-wall cafe decorated in simple black and white. But keep your eyes peeled because it’s well worth it for these micro-roasters offering the smoothest coffee in the city.
Still on Illica take a turn down Frankopanska to Yellow Submarine and it’s wonderful burger concoctions.
On Masarykova, vegetarians will be delighted with Nishta. Just behind Cvjetni Trg (Flower Square) lovers of traditional Italian pizza will rave about Basta.
On Vlaska you’ll find Mali Bar and Amélie, while on Telsa, Bistroteka. Make a stop at Mundoaka for a Croatian take on street food or for a haute-dining experience try Voncimer at Oris House of Architecture.
For some fresh fruit and veg, drop in at Dolac Market with its famous red umbrellas to sample the treats of the real belly of Zagreb.
For a great cocktail stop, try the lobby bar of the five star Esplanade Hotel next to Zagreb train station. Indulge your Orient Express fantasies with cocktails inspired by the famous train journey. The train did stop at here once upon a time.
Upper Town Zagreb
Heading into the Upper Town take a pit-stop on Tkalciceva better know as Zagreb’s drinking street. Stop at the wonderful Rakhia Bar to sample over 100 Croatian brandies.
Zagreb’s Upper Town is the one part of the city that still retains inexplicable magic. Walking the streets you feel a special energy beating through this part of the city. To sit and take it all in try Fajn Bistro or for more beers on tap than you know what to do with try Craft Room.