In 122 BC, the Roman troops were in need of a location that provided the necessities to maintain their health. The original Roman baths Thermes Sextius were built on the site of the city named Aquae Sextiae named after its founder, Roman consul Sextius Calvinus. The word aquae, from which Aix is derived, means water in Latin, and so the...
Calissons d’Aix are made following a traditional recipe: ground almond flour, combined with candied local melon and sugar. The paste is shaped and spread on a thin paper wafer, then covered with whipped egg whites and sugar, and baked at exactly 130°C for 15 minutes. For authentic calissons, the seven confectioners operating in Aix must use identical ingredients for 99%...
According to Christian tradition and modern literary fiction, a saint who arrived from the Holy Land with Mary Magdalene (the patron saint of Provence) on a boat belonging to Lazarus, founded the first place of worship on this site in Aix en Provence. The church was built between the 5th and 19th centuries, it is an intriguing tapestry of architecture...
During the 13th century, this was the location of the regional headquarters of the commander of the Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem. These Knights Hospitallers, or Knights of Malta, had formed into a group in the 11th-century, during the Crusades. The group’s mission was to provide medical care and offer protection to Christian pilgrims visiting the Holy Land and...
The French word cours comes from Italian “corso”, meaning promenade. In 1651, the Archbishop Mazarin used the site of the old ramparts as the base for a new street – now the famed Cours Mirabeau. This prominent road, which divides the old town into two sections, was once reserved for the exclusive use of the aristocracy. Now we can all...
Through the majestic iron gates, you see the cour d’honneur of l’Hôtel de Caumont with its the elegant Baroque limestone facade. This grand entrance was unique even in the chic Quartier Mazarin in Aix en Provence. Hôtel de Caumont was constructed as a commission for M. Réauville, his initials “RR” are found throughout the property, and his family coat of...
Another name for the fountain is the Three Graces. A vast pool 32 meters in diameter decorated with marble statues symbolizing the principal cities of Provence: Aix, Avignon, and Marseille. The statue that faces the Cours Mirabeau and the Courthouses is named Justice. The one to the right of that and facing Marseille is called Agriculture. The remaining statue, which...
Les Deux Garçons** is deservedly the most famous brasserie in Aix-en-Provence and remains a social landmark. Two of the waiters purchased the restaurant from the original owners and named it the Les Deux Garçons — or the Two Waiters. Locally it is known as Les 2G. It has attracted local artists and writers for years, including Paul Cézanne and Emile...
The Granet Museum was once the priory of the Church of St. Jean. This small fine arts and archaeological museum is worth seeing, especially for its extensive 16th to 20th-century Italian, Flemish and French collections. It is also home to a collection called de Cézanne à Giacometti, which features works by Cézanne, Picasso, Léger, Matisse, and Giacometti and other artists...
The influential Albertas family owned the house at 10 rue Espariat in Aix en Provence. Several family members were involved in the local parliament, and Jean Baptiste d’Albertas was President of the Audit Office known in France as the la Cours des Comtes. In 1745, having redone the facade of his house, Jean Baptiste decided that the scene outside his...
On a sunny day, Place des Cardeurs has the ambiance of an Italian piazza – it is a great place to stop for lunch at one of several restaurants. During the middle ages, this section of the city was the Jewish quarter, a scruffy, densely inhabited area. The current square was opened in 1963 after several unsanitary buildings were demolished....
Powerful in appearance the Palais de Justice (courthouse) stands on a busy market square that is full of colour and the sounds of daily life in Provence. The Palais was built on the site of the 13th-century Palais Comptal, the original seat of the Parliament of Provence and the Audit Office. Just behind the courthouse is the Appeals Court, the...
Every day of the week there is a fruit and vegetable market in this lovely space. Although tourists love to browse here, locals actually shop at these stalls for fresh food regularly, taking home the best, the ripest, and the most beautiful. Daily shopping was necessary in a warm climate where refrigeration is a recent innovation. The small enclave, called...
The figure of Roi René, the Prince of Provence during the 15th century, sculpted in white marble by David d’Angers in 1822, and the statue is classified as a historical monument. Roi René is seen holding Muscat grapes, which he introduced to the region during his rule. On two sides of the pedestal are medallions of the King, and on...