Cortona, featured in Under the Tuscan Sun by Francis Mayes, is one of the most popular hill towns to visit in Tuscany. Cortona’s history goes back to the ancient Umbrians, followed by the Etruscans and later the Romans. Etruscan tombs dot the hillside below the town. Remnants of the Etruscan walls are incorporated into the medieval walls around the historic...
The cathedral, or duomo, of Siena is a magnificent Gothic church built between 1215 and 1263. One of its main features is the unusual inlaid marble floor, 56 panels created in the 14th – 16th centuries that depict historical or mythological events. The entire floor is only uncovered for a couple of months each year. Other things not to miss...
San Gimignano is a popular hill town in Tuscany, known for its 14 surviving medieval towers. Rising above the town, the towers create a notable skyline that can be seen as you approach. The small town of San Gimignano once had 72 towers, built by rich families in the middle ages. Torre Grossa, the tallest of the surviving towers, was...
The tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo Galilei, and Dante (tomb only, his remains are in Ravenna) are among the names you’ll recognize in this jaw-slackening church, designed by Arnolfo di Cambio starting in 1294, though work of the initial church continued through 1385. The church’s marble front facade was was added in the 19th century. This is the largest Franciscan church...
In one of the longest lines you’re likely to encounter in Italy, the wait to see this art museum, and its undisputed star, Michelangelo’s David, will be equally impressive. And for good reason, David is arguably the most famous piece of artwork to come out of the Renaissance and is probably the most recognizable sculpture in the world. Begun in...
In addition to the immense stash of Medici-collected items, this excellent museum has an Egyptian collection, Etruscan art and the museum’s famous bronze Greek statue, the Idolino. Also noteworthy is the François Vase, dating from the 6th century BC, believed to be done by the Greek artist Kleitias.
The reason that the ground floor of the Duomo looks so spare is because much of its treasures have been moved here. There are also items here taken from the Baptistry and the campanile (bell tower). The museum won’t make your jaw go slack like the Duomo, but this relatively uncrowded place has a stockpile of treasure that most museums...
Housed in the refectory off the first cloister (designed by Brunelleschi) of the Basilica di Santa Croce, the museum was hit hard by the flood of the Arno River in 1966, when water height reached four meters (over 13 feet). Painstakingly restored items include a Crucifixion by Cimabue, the bronze statue St Louis of Toulouse (1424) by Donatello and a...
Fra Angelico, considered to be one of the earliest Renaissance painters, decorated this monastery during his stay (1436–1445). Nearly all the work was painted by the friar or done by people under his supervision. Among the incredible and groundbreaking paintings are the Altarpiece of San Marco, his massive Crucifixion (Crocifissione) in the Chapterhouse and his Annuciazione at the top of...
Declaring that something is ‘the greatest’ of anything is often a subjective designation. Not this time. The Uffizi Gallery is hands-down the greatest collection of Italian and Florentine art in the world. There’s no overstating the wealth of of this collection: some 1555 pieces occupying 50 rooms, which has grown so massive and rich that even the most minor pieces...
This 13th century church was ravaged by fire in the 18th century. Miraculously, the frescoes by Masaccio, Masolino da Panicale and Filippino Lippi in the Cappella Brancacci survived. The frescoes, started by Masolino in 1425, and later taken over by his pupil, Masaccio, are now considered to be among the first masterworks of the Italian Renaissance, breaking from the Gothic...
Though he did not live to see its completion, it’s believed that Filippo Brunelleschi began designs for this church as early as 1428. After his death in 1446, work continued guided by Antonio Manetti, Giovanni da Gaiole and Salvi d’Andrea. Various additions and elements were later added, including a bell tower (1503) designed by Baccio d’Agnolo. Brunelleschi’s planned facade was...
A long walk from the center, to be sure, but rewarding. Occupying one of the highest points in Florence, uphill from the panoramic views on Piazzale Michelangelo, construction of this church began in 1013. The neighboring monastery, formerly a Benedictine community, was given over to the Olivetans in 1373, who still run it. The marble façade, begun around 1090, has a mosaic of Christ...
Santa Felicita is an 18th century remake of a 4th century church (for some time, Florence’s oldest church). Brunelleschi’s Cappella Barbadori is inside the door on the right and Jacopo Pontormo’s excellent frescoes of the Annunciation and Deposition (depicting Christ being brought down from the Cross) are here as well. Though Medici fans will want to gawk at the section...
Commissioned by banker Luca Pitti in 1457, by the time it was done the family fortunes had dwindled and they were forced to sell the palace to the Medicis in 1549. After the Medicis, the palace served as a residence for city rulers, the dukes of Lorraine and even Napoleon. When Florence was named the capital of the Kingdom of...
One Florence’s surviving city gates, dating from 1332. Another surviving gate, Porta Romana, is about one kilometer south.
It’s not cheap and one needs to make an appointment in advance to arrange it, but touring the recently opened Vasari Corridor is probably one of the most singular and exclusive experiences in Florence. This raised, private passageway was commissioned by Cosimo I de’ Medici, so he could make the trip from the government offices in the Palazzo Vecchio and...
Spanning the Arno River at its narrowest point, the “old bridge” is as storied as it is picturesque (and overrun with crowds). First documented in the late 10th century, the bridge was destroyed by flooding in 1177, 1333 and narrowly avoided being swept away during the flood of 1966. The current structure dates from 1345. Ponte Vecchio was the sole...
They keep it simple here, with a small selection of gelato that is reliably fresh.
Family-run with several generations of experience, this gelateria focuses on Sicilian gelato, sorbet and ice cream sandwiches. It’s a friendly place with benches, tables and even a bathroom. They do 18 kinds of gelato as well as other cold treats. Print out this coupon from their website for an additional free scoop with any purchase.
If you have perhaps become bored with the typical gelato flavors in most shops and are thinking “Why hasn’t anyone made gelato out of papaya, green melon, amaretto, tartufo (truffle) and other totally unexpected things like that?” Then you need to double-time it to this place.
It’s a small place, even as gelaterias go, with only a few stools for seating and about the same amount of space for standing and ordering. They offer a variety of cold and “semi-cold” flavors, including the heavenly Bacio, based on the chocolates made in Perugia. They also do crepes and other treats.
Facing Ponte alla Carraia, this gelateria, boasting 32 flavors, isn’t shy about trying to cover all the bases. The variety actually lends a bit of intrigue to a visit. What’s in “Catalan Cream”? Only one way to find out…
This is some of Florence’s best gelato. It’s not the a large selection, but it’s about the smoothest gelato you’re ever going to get. There’s also an attached shop, selling wine, fancy pasta, liquors and cookies.
Crazy popular, partly due to its enviable location, though the gelato is exceptional. They also sell gelato in tubs, pastries and cakes if you’re planning a party. Pay first at the register, then step up to the counter and point to your gelato fix preference.
In my line of work, it’s usually frowned upon to unequivocally declare anything to be ‘the best’, but this gelato is really something else. Seriously, you gotta try it. The selection isn’t huge, but what they do, they do very well. They are also, and more famously, a chocolate-maker with a generous selection of items, both for immediate enjoyment and...