The attacks on Albania’s religious communities (Sunni and Bektashi Muslims, Catholic and Orthodox Christians) by the Communist regime led to the destruction and desecration of many places of worship, meaning that the small mosque in the south-eastern corner of Skanderbeg Square is a particularly precious jewel. Built in the eighteenth century, its painted walls both internal and external feature trees, waterfalls and cityscapes which are rare...

It seems unbelievable that sleepy Voskopoja was once the largest city in the Balkans – bigger even than Athens – or that it had the only printing press in the region outside Istanbul. Seven churches remain as a legacy from that eighteenth century heyday and although they have intricate frescoes, it is not always easy to gain access to them....