A visit to Naples National Library may not seem the obvious choice, but if you want to see a bit of the the precious collection of 1,800 Papyri scrolls from the Villa of the Papyri at Herculaneum, visit the library is what you must do. The 3rd largest in Italy with about 2 million volumes and prints organized by collection,...

Capodimonte’s collections are vast. They span some 900 years of art in Italy and beyond. There is the treasured Farnese Collection; the Royal Apartment with its exquisite porcelain collection; and the stunning tapestries of the Battle of Pavia in the Alfonso d’Avalos gallery. On the top floor, the Gallery of Contemporary Art  features the photographic works of Mimmo Jodice and not...

You won’t be allowed to wander this castle’s hallowed halls, but the penthouse panoramas from its wrap-around rooftop terrace are more than worth the price of admission. There are 360 degrees of seascapes and cityscapes, for as far as the eye can see: all of the Centro Storico with Santa Chiara towering above and the Spaccanapoli splitting the old city...

From all over the island and beyond, Castello Aragonese is the VIEW. Hike to the top of the castle (or avail yourself of its handy elevator) and the castle becomes the island’s VIEWPOINT, its panoramic overlook, or as they like to call it here, the belvedere. At the top, you can have lunch, a drink or a snack at “Il Terrazzo” and take...

Pointy, pyramidal stones cover the face of the Gesù Nuovo. They are those of a palazzo (15th century), not of a church, but don’t be fooled. The Jesuit’s lavish Baroque house of worship lies just behind this facade. Before you step through the doorway though, take a closer look at these grey, ashlar stones. You’ll see each bears an unusual marking, one...

Entrance to the Girolamini Monumental Complex built by the Oratorian Fathers (1592 – 1619) sits across the street from the Duomo, though it doesn’t command much attention. Behind its humble doors, however, is a stunning church, two precious cloisters and a picture gallery with a view. Baroque treasures abound: Giuseppe Sanmartino’s (the Veiled Christ) Angels and Luca Giordano’s frescoed depiction of the Neapolitan lazzaroni,...

Naples Cathedral, il Duomo, may be a stunning 14th-century French Gothic church (built on top of a paleo-Christian basilica, built on top of a pagan temple) and the seat of the Naples Archdiocese, but its claim to fame is, shall we say, a bit more… miraculous. The miracle in question is that of the liquefaction of the blood of San Gennaro,...

You’ve climbed the volcano and visited the excavations, now you MUST see the impressive collection of Roman art and artifacts that came from these excavations at Naples National Archaeological Museum. The mosaics from the House of the Faun at Pompeii, especially the Alexander Mosaic are simply stunning as is the museum’s collection of frescoes from the Vesuvian sites, with all four Pompeian painting styles represented....

We can’t say for certain that this was the home of Nero’s second wife, Sabina Poppaea, but if it was, that fact would certainly add a bit of intrigue to this splendid and well preserved Roman era villa. What we can say about Villa Poppaea is that of all of the Pompeii Sites, this excavation feels the most intimate and the frescoes here are the...

Caravaggio’s final masterpiece, the Martyrdom of Saint Ursula, was painted in Naples in 1610. After a long and tumultuous journey, it hangs proudly in the city of its birth. The work, which was commissioned by the Doge of Genoa, depicts the murder of Ursula by the King of the Huns. It left Naples bound for Genoa in May 1610, its...

Hidden behind a church, this quiet little park climbs up the side of Posillipo hill, a switchback walking path follows the contours of the park’s terraces. Enshrouded within an encroaching urban landscape – the nearby train station and a heavily trafficked car tunnel – it’s a (quasi) quiet respite from the hustle and bustle of the city. The views of Vesuvius and the...

A small, octagonal church around the corner from the Duomo, Pio Monte della Misericordia safeguards one of Naples greatest treasures, Caravaggio’s Seven Works of Mercy (1607). The work, which is based on the Seven (Christian) Corporal Works of Mercy, was commissioned by the Pio Monte della Misericordia (Pious Mountain of Mercy) charitable organization and one might say, it represents their guiding principles,...

Don’t let the entrance fool you, this stunning church will take your breath away. Most visitors enter San Domenico Maggiore from the piazza of the same name – the church’s apsidal (and less opulent) side, through the Chapel of San Michele Arcangelo a Morfisa, a 10th century church that was incorporated into the complex as a side chapel. The church’s...

A conventual complex with Byzantine roots, San Gregorio Armeno is the scene of a weekly miracle and home to one of Naples prettiest cloisters. The most famous blood liquefaction takes place at the Duomo, but Naples is a city of many of miracles and here, at San Gregorio Armeno, the blood of another saint liquefies. It is the blood of Santa...

There’s a lot to love about this Baroque church, even if you never step inside. Two ancient columns rise from the church’s porch and brace themselves against its facade. They’re all that remain of a pagan temple, that of the Dioscuri, the twins Castor and Pollux who were two of the founding gods of the Greek city of Neapolis; the...

The Sansevero Chapel can be tricky to find, but persevere until you do. Inside this tiny chapel is Giuseppe Sanmartino’s Veiled Christ, an 18th-century masterpiece you don’t want to miss. The sculpture, Christ’s lifeless body in repose covered by a transparent shroud, was hewn from a single slab of stone. It was conceived of by Prince Raimondo di Sangro, an...

Roman ruins, Gothic architecture and Neapolitan artisan crafts live harmoniously behind the walls of Santa Chiara, a citadel-like complex with an unusual double convent. Like most Gothic structures handed down to us from the Angevins, Santa Chiara once wore all of the ornamentation of the Baroque. WWII air raids tragically reduced the complex to rubble, but restoration works serendipitously brought back its Gothic...

Descending into Naples Toledo Metro station, you’ll be transported from the blacks and ochres of the earth to the crystal blue waters of the deepest ocean. Rays of light streaming in from above bounce around as though they’re being reflected off of the facets of a million diamonds. By the time you reach the bottom 50 meters below ground, you’ll be...

Picture the classic Bavarian Christmas market in your mind, then throw that image away. Naples Christmas market is nothing like you’ve ever experienced before. You won’t find any wooden stands, quaint ornaments, simmering sausages or gluhwein, but, you will find a quintessentially Baroque take on Christmas. The sacred and profane, finely crafted products and plenty of Christmas kitsch and everything you need to create or...

A leisurely meander up Via Toledo is a great way to dive into Naples snacking, shopping and strolling cultures. As you will quickly see, these three beloved Neapolitan pastimes can often be done in tandem, all the while, talking on the cell phone. Most snacking comes in the form of fried, frozen or flaky. Try the frittura napoletana at Antica Pizza...